A week after the official close of Montreal Fashion Week up-and-coming designer Dane Richards staged his own independent fashion presentation. Held in the converted warehouse space Eastern Bloc the setting—exposed brick and roof beams, scuffed wood floors and white walls—struck a perfect tone a gave a polished edge to the entire collection.
Richards, who won top prize at Fashion Pop (an annual competition for emerging designers associated with the three-day music festival Pop Montreal) in 2008, is known for is use of fringe and there was no shortage of that here. His autumn/winter 2010-11 collection was reminiscent of his past work but also a look forward to something sleeker, more wearable and more adult. Though fringe was on every piece that came down the runway, from the men’s high-waisted fringed pants, (which made me think of Mongolian sheepherders) to a classic long, straight jersey dress with a thick bottom fringe, he really played with it proportion and volume to create something interesting and new looking. The best pieces of the night, however, were the fringed evening jacket intriguing, glamorous and ethical, and the fringed circle bags with pops of colour.
Photo by Richmond Lam. richmondlam.com
Montreal Fashion Week opens today with an off-site show by Philip Dubuc, and though the show will still take place in Montreal, the term off-site could be used to describe the general trend among young Canadian designers.
Jeremy Laing, Rad Hourani, Mark Fast and Erdem Moralioglu are all emerging Canadian designers who showed their latest collections in New York and London. Laing and Hourani tended towards a silhouette with a more masculine cut, though Laing’s was both softer and with more obvious wearability. Hourani’s entire collection is unisex and works equally well on men and women (one thing you’re guaranteed to see at Montreal Fashion Week is a lot of men and women in stacked Hourani heels), with a great downtown near futuristic edge that’s appealing and hard to ignore.
In some way’s Fast’s collection felt overshadowed by the media attention surrounding his inclusion of full-figured models in his runway show. There’s no denying the curvier girls pulled off his figure hugging knitwear as well as the others but were the designs that interesting and the silhouettes new? Some of the colours fell a bit flat to my eye. The colours at Erdem looked new, however, and the prints were bold and wearable and I liked that everything was styled with a sturdy ankle boot, even the flowing evening gowns, it gave a bit of a tough edge to what could’ve been a overly girly collection.
Images from Left to Right: Jeremy Laing f/w 10, Rad Hourani f/w 10, Mark Fast f/w 10 & Erdem f/w 10.